Initially a Shoreditch pop-up, the self-styled ‘Dans Le Noir of the drinking world’ has landed at No Such Place, a supposedly clandestine Covent Garden basement. Ticket-only sessions include a welcome glass of Prosecco. Intrigued attendees are then ushered into a shabby, windowless anteroom of uncommonly ugly decor and shown to their seats: uncomfortable fold-up chairs, our lot. Thereafter, in ‘pitch black’ surroundings (save for fluorescent coasters), two glasses of wine and two cocktails are presented as the ‘interactive experiential blind tasting’ unfolds. The MC invites participants to ‘discuss the festival of herbaceous, sweet, savoury and floral treats set before them’. Based on our first mixed drink – ‘Pisco Sour?’, ‘Ribena?’, wonder aloud our fellow guinea pigs – we conclude there are much better ways to spend 90 minutes and £90 for two. Despite the promise of an amuse bouche and a surprise twist to follow, we slip out… under cover of darkness.