Cabana could not be further from the evocative wooden hut that its name suggests. It is a large, entirely glass-walled, high-ceilinged open space much more suited to a shopping centre setting (which is where the second branch is appropriately located apparently) than to central London. Despite it being a Saturday night it was also rather empty and the sheer size of the place translates that into deserted. So I was a bit disappointed when we walked in (not least because I had suggested it!). The toilets, however, are totally in keeping with the theme and worth a visit: flip flops nailed to the doors, driftwood-mounted mirrors, pastel-painted tin walls. I can't rave about the food though: it's a churascaria and in theory I am a big fan of anything which involves eating limitless meat. In practice though I found the meat poor in quality and overcooked. Chewing through the first bit of steak I tried was hard work and put me off stuffing my stomach to the limits of its expandability. Perhaps this is a deliberate plan on the part of the management in order to preserve profits which would otherwise be eaten away by my eating habits, but if so it rather backfires as I don't think I'll be back. The low point was dessert when we chose natural yoghurt with range of chocolatey toppings: both those elements are tempting but the combination is a disaster and most of us ate only one bit or the other. Having said all that, there is definitely a place for this restaurant: it's for those occasions when fun and convenience trump discerning tastebuds, for example for group meals and for kids. It wasn't too expensive (about £45 a head for 3 big courses and lots of booze) and service dealt admirably with our large and raucous gang. Personally, I look forward to trying another incarnation of the Brazilian barbecue elsewhere in the hope that the skewered meat is a juicy as it should be and I can scoff to my heart's content (and probably its ultimate downfall).