Park Chinois 333

Squaremeal Review of Park Chinois ?

Squaremeal London Hot 100 2016Although Alan Yau modelled this high-end Chinese on a “sumptuous Shanghai speakeasy” circa 1930, some readers reckon it feels more like a “semi-exclusive airport lounge” – albeit one with heavy antique furnishings, acres of red velvet, powder-blue armchairs and a jazz band playing at one end. However, Park Chinois creates its own cabaret world, backed by Yau's trademark amalgam of European and Chinese culinary traditions. Meals are designed around separate western-style courses and much of the food is “exquisitely executed”, with dim sum singled out for special praise: “incredibly juicy” har gau, “spectacular” xiao long bao (steamed buns) and “amazing” scallop XO dumplings have all been devoured with glee. Mains are, for the most part, “pretty good” rather than top-class, from full-strength Peking duck (£85 per bird) to stir-fried Wagyu bavette with ginger and spring onion, grilled black cod with saké and soy or Japanese pumpkin and chestnut potted rice. “Glorious” unrestrained opulence is guaranteed, but it comes at an exorbitant price – and there’s the rub: dinner is strictly for big-ticket special occasions, although booze-free dim sum lunches offer a relatively affordable way in.

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Park Chinois
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Park Chinois

17 Berkeley Street ,London W1J 8EA

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar fullstar fullstar full

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Sumputous Speakeasy

by   gold reviewer (49)

Jul 2016

Editor's pick I love this place! It has all the things that Hakkasan has surrendered. Style, sophistication, decadence and a hint of the exclusive. But not impossibly so. Reminiscent of an Opium Den or a Peking speakeasy of the 1930s the richly furnished upstairs room is warm and enveloping with lots of red velvet, especially as there are no windows. Downstairs has a more caberet, Chinese theatre-type feel with black and gold, accented with purples; all beautiful and clearly expensive. I was taking daddy for Father's...

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Amy M.'s rating

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  • Food & Drink: 10
  • Service: 10
  • Atmosphere: 8
  • Value: 8

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Park Chinois

17 Berkeley Street ,London W1J 8EA

Overall rating: star fullstar fullstar emptystar emptystar empty

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Growing up is not always fun

by   platinum reviewer (203)

Mar 2016

Editor's pick It was all just a bit too serious. As I sat waiting for my dining comrade to arrive on a recent lunchtime visit to Park Chinois, my first instinct was to rebel, perhaps do something naughty or to cause some sort of minor disturbance. I know this sounds horribly childish, but my hackles were raised from the moment I walked in. Diners may be used to swanky affairs in this part of Mayfair (the restaurant is a couple of doors along from Nobu on one side and Sexy Fish on the other, with Novikov almost...

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Gourmand Gunno's rating

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  • Food & Drink: 7
  • Service: 4
  • Atmosphere: 4
  • Value: 4

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  1. Published :

    Man in London :: Man in London Alan Yaus Park Chinois

    You can smell the money, walking in here – both the fit out and the wealth of the diners. For a fact we were sat next to a billionaire, whose dining companion’s glittering high heels would have been visible from space.
    If you are smart – and we were – you can get away with spending &100 a head including a glass of red and white wine. If your numbers have come up then of course you’ll start with Peking Duck Imperial Caviar at &280. Look up Fay Maschler’s review and you’ll see how.
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  1. Published :

    Dancing In High Heels :: Dancing In High Heels AFTERNOON TEA AT PARK CHINOIS

    Park Chinois has been on my list for a while, but I never realized that they did afternoon tea until a friend of mine suggested it. Walking through the heavy red velvet curtains, we are greeted at the front reception desk before being led through another set of doors, above it hung a notice with the words &On Air&.
    The red colour theme continues throughout, with interior decorations and furniture that give a 1920&s Chinese dance hall feel to it.
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  1. Published :

    The Food Judge :: Park Chinois Put on your dancing shoes

    “Park Chinois occupies a niche, and offers a balance to the current club culture. It brings about a rebirth of the Dinner Dance aesthetic, a modern interpretation underpinned by old school values.” Website: Park Chinois
    One of the more creative of our serial restaurateurs, Alan Yau has for this, his latest venture, chosen to target the much-moneyed Mayfair crowd and it looks like he’s using old Shanghai as his reference point. In the dripping Golden Triangle bounded by 5 Hertford Street, The Arts Club and Novikov comes Park Chinois, doing a me too to the itinerant rich who frequent this particular part of Mayfair.
    1930s...
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Alan Yau

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Salon Noir 9
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The Opera 18
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Club Chinois 180

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