SquareMeal Review of
Despite a plum location on a pedestrian cut-through between the glitzy hotels and luxury brands of Knightsbridge and the tourist-friendly expanse of Hyde Park, this cute Italian manages to feel like a cosy neighbourhood dining room. In part this is due to the tiny dimensions, and also a glossy Italian clientele who all seem to know the young owner. Roman cuisine is the culinary speciality, with rarely seen (for London) dishes including semolina gnocchi in a sauce so abundant it’s almost like a cheese soup, a chunky rice croquette in tomato sauce, and veal saltimbocca. As you might expect, pasta is the highlight - cacio e Pepe and pacchero with broad beans, guanciale and pecorino were both excellent - but there’s also an intriguing dish of meltingly soft tripe in a deeply flavoured tomato sauce, although like much of the cooking, it was over-salted. Friendly waiters add to the jolly charm of a quirky one-off.