SquareMeal Review of
The fishy outpost of Mauro Sassa’s little Belgravia empire is as well-loved if not more so than its carnivorous sibling Olivocarne, with families, courting couples, office workers and business types all taking advantage of its pleasing piscine offer. “Wonderful Sardinian seafood” is the lure and the menu offers a host of timeless classics: mussels and clams with garlic and parsley, oysters and tuna bresaola all feature as starters, but there are dishes to tempt the curious too – chargrilled stuffed baby squid and sea urchins, for example, served raw with crostini. After that, invest in some handmade pasta – linguine with crab is a longstanding favourite, or skip directly to the main event such as grilled yellowfin tuna, sea bream baked in salt or a Sardinian version of a paella based on fregola couscous. Given that fish is the restaurant’s USP, the wine list is surprisingly red-heavy, but few would argue with its quality.