Oli's Thai 22

Squaremeal Review of Oli's Thai ?

A beacon of independence in an increasingly chain-heavy city, Oli’s may be small but it packs a big Thai punch. Named after the owner’s young son, this café-style set-up seats around 20, so peak-time tables can require booking a month ahead – especially as the food is also terrific value. Alternatively, you can turn up on spec and stake your claim, then head off for a pint (they’ll call you when a table is free). Either way, this is food worth waiting for.  Everything on the modest menu is cooked in a tiny open kitchen, and we’ve yet to have a dud dish from the dozen on offer. Top marks go to the confit duck Penang curry, the meat pulling from the bone into a sweet and spicy coconut cream sauce, but we’ve also enjoyed fresh and fragrant chicken with garlic, pepper and coriander, crispy chickpea salad, and jumbo-size sweetcorn fritters with sweet chilli sauce. And don’t leave without the trying the Portuguese-style custard tart: it’s epically good. Oli’s may be homespun, but it’s stylish too, from the orange melamine eating counter to the fine glass tumblers used for wine.

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