SquareMeal Review of
In the wake of The Berkeley’s extensive refurbishment, this grandiose restaurant seems distinctly straight-backed and grown-up, with its high ceilings, wood panelling and acres of white linen – although there’s nothing starchy about either the food or the “extraordinary” service. Marcus is lauded as one of London’s prime culinary destinations and rightly so as “peerless” Marcus Wareing’s two-Michelin-starred cooking is adventurous, meticulous, with “jaw-dropping” presentation and intelligent combinations of flavours and textures. From canapés – delicate lobster tuile topped with crab – to luscious deserts – custard of meadowsweet encased in a perfect crumbly, buttery pastry crust – the kitchen rarely puts a foot wrong. The results can seem a little overcomplicated, but there’s a reason for everything on the plate: wild rice and plum give sweetness to gamey grouse legs, while roasted beef dressing adds resonant deep notes to the sauce with a huge curried scallop. The wine list rises to all occasions; if you’re not in the market for a bottle of ’21 Château d’Yquem (£15K), ask the genius sommelier for his recommendations. “The ultimate dining experience.”
Former Sommelier's Award winner
A classic selection but an exceptionally good one, sommelier Michael Deschamps has managed to put together an awesome range of wines without succumbing to the temptation simply to buy anything that looks expensive. As well as some terrific wines from classic French regions, there are flashes of inspiration from Spain and California as well that give it real personality, as well as bling.