SquareMeal Review of
Lutyens at The Ned
Formerly members-only, this formal steakhouse at Soho House’s gargantuan hotel and dining complex, The Ned, is now open to the public. An air of old-school clubbiness pervades the dining room: a wood-panelled former bank manager’s office populated by green leather chairs and chesterfields. ‘Cardinal’s hat’-style lighting (of the type designed by architect Edwin Lutyens) illuminates the place. As the name suggests, the main menu is all about grills – from pork cutlets, lobsters and Shorthorn rib-eyes to vast 1kg T-bones to share (with appropriate sauces all round) – though you can also opt for daily roasts carved from perambulating trolleys (think rack of veal or salmon en croûte). Our choice, Hereford rib-eye, was juicy and tender, and we can also recommend the side dishes: creamy dauphinois potatoes, roasted portobello mushrooms and crisp, golden chips. For dessert, the ‘chocolate nemesis’ may well be your diet’s enemy, but the gooey bar of thick chocolate served with refreshing pomegranate ice cream is worth the calories. Big-ticket wines from around the globe suit the clubby atmosphere, and there’s also an enterprising choice of beers: try the local Hoxton Stout or Brick Lane lager. Attentive staff, a slick atmosphere and a well-heeled menu ensure Lutyens Grill is perfectly matched to its suited-and-booted City clientele.