SquareMeal Review of
The Grind empire already encompasses cafés in Shoreditch, Soho and Holborn, but this is its first restaurant. Coffee still dominates proceedings, though beyond the bar stools and sarnies you’ll see a dining area and open kitchen – accompanied by those Grind hallmarks, bass-led music and red neon lights. Most ingredients on the reasonably priced menu are sourced from Borough Market, resulting in wholesome plates of broccoli with radicchio and hazelnuts, or spatchcock baby chicken with cavalo nero. All-day brunch staples include the London Grind, a generous full English with twists such as chorizo sausages and cannellini beans in moreish tomato sauce. Our tender chicken came surrounded by a too-salty red-wine reduction, but the hearty Italian cheeseboard (including strong, silky Ciabra) was unmissable. A succinct wine list covers Australasia and Italy; espresso-leaning cocktails and a variety of gins make appealing alternatives. The chain plans to expand further, adding to London’s daily grind.