SquareMeal Review of
Modern Turkish Oklava won legions of fans when it opened in Shoreditch back in 2015 and now restaurateurs Laura Christie and Selin Kiazim hope to repeat their success with this stylish and intimate follow up, right by Warren Street tube. The menu is inspired by dishes from the city of Kayseri; the ‘a’ has supposedly been dropped in order to show that Kyseri offers up Turkish dishes with a twist, although we suspect it’s also because it makes the restaurant easier to Google.
Innovative small plates to share include the likes of a canapé-sized lamb and loquat skewer: dainty, yet punchy, the sweet and juicy loquat providing a perfect contrast to the intense, spice-laden lamb. We were also impressed by veal sweetbreads, which saw meltingly soft meat massaged with creamy hazelnut yoghurt and brown butter. The Turkish pasta is another highlight: manti (dumpling-style pasta parcels) are stuffed with sour cherry-flecked beef and served with a blend of yoghurt and a peppery red sauce, which you’ll have to resist licking clean off the plate.
An intriguing wine list champions small producers from Turkey and the Middle East, while desserts also excite: we were particularly taken by the sweet-as-can-be honey ice cream, sandwiched between two crumbly crackers. Cool, calm and seriously delicious, Kyseri is a little slice of Turkish heaven.
Kyseri is recommended for