SquareMeal Review of
Full of vibe and vigour, this Chilean spot really brings something different to the London restaurant scene. It’s a casually attired joint, with wooden flooring, bare-brick or red walls, Latin American artefacts, and blackboards advertising forthcoming events. There’s plenty of chilli about in the cooking, but this adds a liveliness to the flavours rather than overwhelming them. If you can bear to overlook a ceviche of sea bass with ginger, lime and chilli, start with pichanga, the house version of antipasti, including olives, cheese and quails’ eggs as well as chorizo, salami and palm hearts. Follow with mussels baked with white wine and Parmesan, or a traditional humita al plato – crushed corn with red pepper, served with a quinoa salad. Modest pricing adds to the charm, as does the live music on Friday and Saturday nights; check Kultrún’s website for listings.