SquareMeal Review of
Received with enthusiasm and garlanded with awards, Kitty Fisher’s is nothing if not popular – though limited table availability may have stemmed the flow of feedback from readers. If you can get in (keep an eye on social media for last-minute opportunities), you’ll find two intimate floors of close-packed tables, with mildly 18th-century stylings and a whisper of blush-pink velvet inspired by the eponymous courtesan. By contrast, the cooking is distinctly 21st century, ticking off whipped cod’s roe with bread and fennel butter, burrata with peas and mint, grilled langoustines draped in lardo or lamb rump with courgette, grelot onions, goats’ curd and smoked almonds. Quality is unfailingly high throughout, finishing on a top note with lemon tart or grilled strawberries, crumble and clotted-cream ice cream. The house cocktail is the gin-based Bad Kitty, while a short, fairly priced wine list runs alongside the artfully mixed drinks.