SquareMeal Review of
Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs
Backed by the Sethi family (of Gymkhana and Trishna fame), Kitchen Table is a labour of love for husband-and-wife team James Knappett (chef) and Sandia Chang (sommelier). A semi-secret space located to the rear of Bubbledogs, the 20-seat, kitchen-hugging counter sees James and his team cook (and serve) a different 12-course menu each night based on what’s best that day. Nibbles of chicken skin, bacon jam and rosemary mascarpone are the only constant, while each course is described only by a single word. There’s a lot of trust involved, but the mysteries of ‘scallop’, ‘potato’, ‘mackerel’, ‘mullet’, ‘Ticklemore’, ‘blueberry’ and so on continue to deliver in spades for effusive readers. Service from the chefs and smarty attired staff is supremely slick and warm, but don’t come here expecting an intimate experience – you’re as likely to end up chatting with new friends as your own guests. Tilted towards small independent growers, Sandia’s 100-bin wine list matches the bubbly stuff out front.