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Backed by the Sethi family (of Gymkhana and Trishna fame), Kitchen Table is a labour of love for husband-and-wife team James Knappett (chef) and Sandia Chang (sommelier). A semi-secret space located to the rear of Bubbledogs, the 19-seat, kitchen-hugging counter sees James and his team cook (and serve) a different 12-course menu each night based on what’s best that day. Nibbles of chicken skin, bacon jam and rosemary mascarpone are the only constant, while each course is described only by a single word. There’s a lot of trust involved, but the mysteries of ‘scallop’, ‘potato’, ‘mackerel’, ‘mullet’, ‘Ticklemore’, ‘blueberry’ and so on continue to deliver in spades for effusive readers. Service from the chefs and smarty attired staff is supremely slick and warm, but don’t come here expecting an intimate experience – you’re as likely to end up chatting with new friends as your own guests. Tilted towards small independent growers, Sandia’s 100-bin wine list matches the bubbly stuff out front.
Last weekend I had a real treat. Some time at the end of last year a plan was made to visit The Kitchen Table at Bubbledogs, a chef's table run by James Knappett that won its first Michelin star last year. Obviously, with a Michelin star comes a long waiting list, so we weren't able to get a Saturday night reservation until last weekend. 10 of us had a booking for 7.30. The Kitchen Table has 2 sittings each evening,with the first group of 10 arriving at 6.30 and the next arriving at 7.30, and each group sitting round half of the counter that wraps around the central kitchen. When I heard there were 2 sittings I was...
More from a little lusciousness: BULL IN A CHINA SHOP, SHOREDITCH »
I’m going to let you in on a little secret. There’s a great fine dining restaurant hidden behind the popular London restaurant Bubbledogs. Ever wonder why they have that glorious “&” everywhere? It’s for & Kitchen Table. In reality, it’s not that much of a secret. It got a Michelin star in 2015, so it’s been a rising star of the foodie scene for awhile. The chef, James Knappet, and the sommelier, Sandia Chang, are an amazing (married) duo who have worked at some of the top restaurants around the world, and they came to London and opened their own restaurant. I don’t just like this restaurant; it’s probably my favorite...
More from The Boozy Bunch »
Imagine you’re an up and coming young chef (James Knappett), you’ve worked at the top end of international fine dining at Noma, Per Se and Marcus Wareing, and your wife is the sommelier at Simon Rogan’s Roganic (Sandia Chang). Maybe over a coffee the two of you are idly dreaming about opening your own place. You want to create something different-something with strong branding and good margins that will draw in the punters…and so Bubbledogs was born, a surreal and inspired fusion of gourmet hot dogs with grower champagne. But Knappett had a cunning plan and sitting at the back of the fizz and dog emporium is his intimate...
More from The Hedonist »
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