SquareMeal Review of
Kitchen 264 at The Collection
The Collection's unshowy, Med-influenced cooking frequently comes up trumps. There's much to like on a menu that runs from fat little squid stuffed with minced lamb and almonds to grilled poussin
or chunks of roasted monkfish on linguine spiked with pungent bottarga – although prices for, say, pepper-crusted sirloin steak or poached lobster with chive butter are decidedly OTT. Also, the
whole package can seem rather self-conscious, a faux-exclusive trip for Chelsea poseurs – note the fashionably black, warehouse-chic interiors, the hostesses wielding guest lists and the plasma
screens, which can whir down mid-meal to show the football. Bouncers are de rigueur, although the waiting staff are all welcoming smiles, warmth and efficiency as they talk up the surprisingly
affordable selection of fun cocktails and wines.