SquareMeal Review of
The House of Ho
Following the closure of the Soho original, Fitzrovia is now home to The House of Ho’s unique spin on modern Vietnamese cooking. Long-time fans of Gilgamesh may recall chef/director Ian Pengelley’s penchant for all things pan-Asian, here tweaked to fit the Vietnamese brief – think miso-roasted stone bass pointed up with fermented plum sauce, or battered soft-shell crab on mounds of whole dried chillis (for decoration only, we hasten to add). Bowls of pho show real beefy depth, while more broadly inspired snow crab and scallop dumplings or ‘smoking’ sashimi of salmon and yellowtail seem wallet-busting against comparable efforts elsewhere. The colonial swish of plush green leather, patterned wallpaper and ceiling fans spans a warren of townhouse rooms perfect for private occasions, and the smart terrace is a people-watcher’s dream. Bottles of White Rabbit Riesling work a treat across the menu, while cocktails match the kitchen’s subtle creativity – ask the eager-to-please staff for a recommendation.