The first thing you see as you walk into the hotel is a portrait, dead ahead. It’s of a surreal, luminescent figure, almost alien-like, with head bowed. It’s the first of many things that will grab your attention at The Mandrake - arguably one of the most visually arresting dinner spots in the capital.
YOPO Zaytoun has undergone a major menu refresh since its previous iteration, but the theatrical styling remains intact. Slick interiors are awash with potted palms, languid ficuses, hardwood herringbone floors, and a sweeping ceiling mural. The resident taxidermy ostrich still guards the dining room, anchoring the hotel’s proud dramatic streak. Even the loos are a spectacle, boasting giant clusters of tubular pendant lights and a booming soundtrack.
The culinary focus has pivoted from Latin America to the Eastern Med. A silky hummus topped with sundried tomato, olives, and crunchy flatbread shards makes for a delicious, if safe, opening act. From there, the kitchen flexes its muscles with slick raw seafood and feast-worthy sharing plates: hand-dived scallops thinly sliced and dressed with grapefruit, grassy olive oil, and sea fennel, followed by a fall-apart braised beef short rib perched on fluffy saffron couscous. Like the hotel itself, the food is built to impress without trading away pure comfort.
Service was, admittedly, disjointed on the evening with so much going on in the hotel, and some dishes were a touch heavy on the seasoning, but that’s all the more reason to order from the stellar cocktail menu courtesy of the adjacent Waeska Bar. Our pick is the Mangosteen - a punchy, refreshing mix of Patrón tequila, hibiscus-chipotle agave, jalapeño vinegar, and grapefruit soda.
Trippy art, enveloping soundscapes, spectacular loos and big-hitting Eastern Med plates - YOPO Zaytoun doesn't do subtle and it's all the better for it. This is a restaurant for those ready to dive head first into full-throttle sensory immersion.