SquareMeal Review of
Following a brief residency at the Experimental Group’s Henrietta Hotel, wunderkind Ollie Dabbous has packed his bags and moved into his new home at Hide in Mayfair. In his wake, the restaurant has been re-branded as the Henrietta Bistro, with Perpignan-born chef Sylvain Roucayrol (from sister site Comapagne des Vins Supernaturels) at the helm. Not surprisingly, native influences from southwest France and the Basque country dominate the regionally inspired small-plates menu – from grilled Galician octopus with herb relish or veal sweetbread with nettles and vine jaune to asparagus with razor clams and wild garlic or a ‘bocadillo’ of beef txistorra (a fast-cured sausage patty ‘sandwich’ from Aragon), all matched by a list of mainly Mediterranean wines. As for the decor, a glass roof, terracotta tiles and oak floors blend with French-designed ‘free-form’ tables and a hand-painted mural – so expect a casual vibe with the music turned up, the lights turned down and the hotel’s famed cocktails flowing until 1am in the mezzanine bar (courtesy of the guys from the Experimental Cocktail Club).
Henrietta Bistro is recommended for