SquareMeal Review of
Harlequin at Kingsway Hall
Famous as the setting for some of the best classical music recordings in recent years, the old Kingsway Hall was demolished in 1984 – although its replacement still retains the original building’s grand facade. Food-wise, pride of place goes to the hotel’s Harlequin restaurant – a refreshingly relaxed dining room with a vast glass wall at the entrance, specimen trees, pale floors and pastel shades. British seasonal dishes dominate the menu, from confit Loch Fyne salmon with cauliflower cream, piccalilli and fennel cress to Yorkshire pork belly with braised cheeks, red cabbage and pear. Dry-aged steaks and ‘coarse-cut’ burgers also feature, while puds might bring rhubarb and strawberry crumble or boozy bananas Foster with custard cream. The food is matched by a well-crafted wine list, and the Harlequin is also a fine spot for afternoon tea.