SquareMeal Review of
GB Grill & Bar
The Gregg in question is none other than Wallace, the bald one from MasterChef, and this is his second restaurant in the capital. Following an early mangling by the critics, he drafted in a
new chef and revamped the menu – although there is still some way to go, judging by feedback. The overhauled line-up interleaves British classics with lots of global influences, so expect anything
from smoked-bacon croquettes, fish pie and grilled lamb cutlets to salt-and-pepper squid, BBQ rare-breed pork rib or pumpkin crème brûlée. Ingredients are top-notch (Wallace is a greengrocer by
trade, after all), but the details can let things down – prettily presented but ‘tasteless’ prawn dumplings, ‘horribly black’ carrots in a dish of crudités, ‘dry’ chicken with mango salsa and
jasmine rice. More care and consistency is required if Gregg’s is to make a permanent mark in Bermondsey.