Cafe Murano Bermondsey

Bronze Award
££££
Italian

Cafe Murano Bermondsey
Cafe Murano Bermondsey
Cafe Murano Bermondsey
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SquareMeal Review of Cafe Murano Bermondsey

Bronze Award

This Bermondsey Street address has an impeccable pedigree when it comes to Italian restaurants – it was once home to Zucca, the much-loved (and much-missed) showcase for the talents of chef Sam Harris. Its newest tenant is Angela Hartnett, who has opened this third London outpost of Café Murano, her casual offshoot of her Michelin-starred Murano restaurant, towards the bottom of Bermondsey Street.   

It’s a big space, with room for 110 diners, though the clever design means that tables still feel intimate, while there’s life and laughter coming from the long open kitchen (with seats at the counter). A wall of windows keeps things light and bright by day while the headlights of passing cars adds an urban edge at night; it all feels more up-to-date than Hartnett’s more polished-looking West End sites, as too the interior design which clashes Italian marble with raw concrete alongside Café Murano’s signature timber panelling.

Fresh pasta made on site and superior-quality risotto rice is, as ever, the main draw at Café Murano – marigold-yellow ravioli glistening with grassy olive oil and glinting with black pepper or, in autumn, a Parmesan risotto shaved with a snowfall of white truffle.

Elsewhere, the dishes are no less appealing for being so simple: octopus carpaccio with olives, potato and chilli oil, say, followed by a stew of lamb neck with carrots and celery or stone bass with the aniseed and iodine notes of fennel and samphire. You might, though, find yourself casting longing glances at a terrific-value £10 kids’ menu which has chicken Milanese or tagliatelle with sausage ragu followed by ice cream or fruit salad.    

If you don’t want to eat, there’s a bar for aperitivi and cicchetti (anchovies, arancini) and Italian gins put to good use in an authentically Italian Negroni. The all-Italian wine list, meanwhile, focuses on small producers, with an emphasis on low intervention and biodynamic methods of winemaking; if you’re not sure what to order, you can’t go wrong with the own-label Angela Hartnett Toscana bianco produced by Tenuta Fertuna.

About Cafe Murano Bermondsey

Acclaimed London chef Angela Hartnett has added to her restaurant portfolio with this third location of her expanding Café Murano group, in Bermondsey.

Head chef Adam Jay (who previously headed up the St James’s site) is overseeing the kitchen, serving Café Murano signatures as well as a few new dishes which are exclusive to the new location.

From the line-up of cichetti, antipasti and fresh pastas, alongside other classic Italian dishes, you might expect to find the likes of octopus with borlotti beans, tomato and salsa verde, rigatoni with Italian sausage ragu, and salt cod fritters with Parmesan and lemon.

Like the food, the drinks offering keeps things Italian, so you might wash it all down with Italian wines and cocktails such as the Café Murano Spritz, made from a blend of Aperol, Cocchi Rosa and Luxardo Maraschino.

The original Café Murano opened in 2013 as a more casual off-shoot of Hartnett’s Michelin-starred flagship Murano in Mayfair. Hartnett opened a second Cafe Murano in 2015, on Tavistock Street in Covent Garden. 

Hartnett first came to prominence working for Gordon Ramsay before going solo with Murano. In addition to the restaurants within the Murano portfolio, Hartnett launched the critically acclaimed Merchant’s Tavern with husband and fellow chef Neil Borthwick. In 2018, Hartnett was the winner of the first Ayala SquareMeal Female Chef of the Year award.

Good to know

Eat Out to Help Out Participating Restaurant
Eat Out to Help Out Participating Restaurant
Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Italian
Ambience
Fun, Lively
Food Occasions
Dinner, Lunch, Sunday roast
Special Features
Counter dining, Vegetarian options
People
Birthdays, Celebrations, Child friendly, Dates, Romantic
Food Hygiene Rating

Location for Cafe Murano Bermondsey

184 Bermondsey Street, Bermondsey, London, SE1 3TQ

020 3985 1545

Website


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