SquareMeal Review of
Sibling to Highbury steakhouse Garufa, this ‘Argentine kitchen’ offers a broader menu of regional specialities – although the menu is still dominated by the parrilla grill and authentic meaty cuts with names like lomo, cuadril and vacio. The kitchen also delivers four kinds of empanadas (try the version with roasted ‘brined’ chicken, spring onions, raisins and cumin), plus lots of “genuinely interesting” small ‘platitos’ for sharing – from fried squid, chorizo and rabbit croquettes with smoked cauliflower purée to roast partridge with black pudding and potato stew. Sides, sauces and breads also do the business, while desserts are dominated by dulce de leche. A thoughtful wine list includes some surprises, as well as excellent samples by the glass. Sadly, recent reports of sloppy service, “careless” cooking and poor housekeeping suggest that Garufa may be struggling in an increasingly crowded Argentinian marketplace.