SquareMeal Review of
This stylish Italian is all about the joys of the grill (fucina roughly translates as ‘forge’) and all-organic ingredients, in an overly swanky setting. Serial restaurateur Kurt Zdesar (of Ping Pong and Chotto Matte fame) has focused his attentions on Italy this time, with family-style dining at its heart – there’s a superb pizza menu for a start. A colourful, sparkling variety of salads (think beetroot with walnut, caprino and yogurt) is followed by well-priced, stonebaked pizzas, quality pasta options and a (more expensive) range of grilled fish and meats: our delicately delicious black pig shoulder was worth the price tag. There's weekend brunch too, featuring Italian pastries and breakfast pizzas. The long, cavern-like room has had large bulges added to its ceiling, perhaps in an attempt to conjure intimacy from the lofty ceiling height (it’s officially supposed to create the look of a pizza oven’s interior), but the result is bizarrely distracting. Well-drilled staff and soft furnishings create a relaxing experience overall, making Fucina ideal for a refined lunch, if a discombobulating mix of swank and heartiness come dinner time.