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Claridge's, Brook Street
FERA AT CLARIDGE'S PERMANENTLY CLOSED ON THE 31 DECEMBER 2018
Simon Rogan may have left the Claridge’s fold, but Michelin-starred Fera is still turning heads with protégé Matt Starling at the helm. The restaurant’s name means ‘wild’ in Latin, and the menu showcases carefully sourced and foraged native ingredients in a line-up of wondrous, highly sophisticated dishes “created with great imagination”: a devilled scallop flavoured with mushroom and pine (served in its shell on a bed of pebbles) or raw Dexter beef partnered by a sliver of smoked cauliflower, sweet cicely and shiso – an elegant take on beef tartare that combines earthy notes with a fresh citrus zing. Elsewhere, Cornish lamb and belly with king oyster mushrooms packs an umami punch, while anise and hyssop mousse matched with sweet soft cheese delivers delicate herbal freshness. Left-field wine pairings feature ‘natural’ tipples from small producers, service shows the expected Claridge’s polish, and the setting marries the hotel’s traditional art-deco styling with a soothing palate of muted greens and browns. For the full Fera experience, however, we recommend booking a place at the six-table ‘development kitchen’ to explore a raft of more experimental dishes. Clearly, this restaurant still has the power to surprise, with readers regularly reaching for the superlatives.
Gluten-free restaurants in London
Best Haute Cuisine
London's Hot 100 Restaurants
SquareMeal Gold Awards
Best in Mayfair
Claridge's, Brook Street
Bond Street Tube Station 218m
Oxford Circus Tube Station 558m
Fenwick of Bond Street 208m
Mon-Sun 12N-2pm 6.30-10pm
Experience Fera at Claridge’s almost as nature intended: choose to dine privately in a beautiful space for up to 12 people.
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 3
My friend is going to hate me for this review, but I just don't get Fera... Maybe I'm choosing wrong? Maybe my pallet just isn't up to the genius that is Fera but every time I've come here I always feel let down by my main course.
I'll go through to positives first, the space is one of the best in London, big dinning area with a fantastic centerpiece of a white tree, fantastic stained glass in the ceiling and big windows means the area is always well lit, perfect for those Instragram selfies and food pictures. Service is impeccable as you'd expect with friendly and passionate staff and the wine is always fantastic.
Maybe it's my fault, then, my friend loves it more than she loves 1920s themed cocktail bars, which is a lot, but every time I've ordered the fish I've always felt it was slightly undercooked, resulting in me not being able to eat it all and feeling slightly queasy... This time's offender was hake in savoy cabbage.
Everything else is always delicious, and the dessert I had I could have eaten 10 of, a fantastic quince, honey and marzipan course.
I'll come back, I have to for my friend's sake. I'll just have to be more astute with my ordering...
Food + drink: 5
Fera was a surprise, the food is very sophisticated, localy sourced and created with great imagination. We had the 5 dish tasting menu(£85). It was excellent and so good I actually added 2 more dishes.
Great place for a celebratory evening.
I will go back
Food + drink: 4
Surprisingly the restaurant was no more than half-full which muted the ambience somewhat, but as the evening wore on and we worked our way through the updated tasting menu we noticed this less and less. Our reasonably priced (unlike some of the other wines on show) English fizz aperitif (Davenport Limney) was accompanied by chick pea mousse with a rosemary crisp and curd cheese artistically decorated with assorted flowers and leaves. As usual there was a multiplicity of hors d’oeuvres with a smoked seaweed cracker, scallop cream and alexanders making a comeback at the expense of celery; stewed rabbit with lovage cream, and caramelised onion in a tapioca flour bhaji; unctuous yet light, aerated Tunworth, three-cornered garlic and slow-cooked duck heart; and mushroom cake with juniper providing a sweet undertone, fennel, inoki mushrooms and a finish of subtle pine. Then we were on to the starters, four of them, starting with raw scallop, salsify cooked in squid ink, pearl barley, anise and a whey and verjus sauce; followed by raw veal in a crunchy kohlrabi wrap, apple and a sauce redolent of oyster; next came white crab meat with a delightful compressed rhubarb sauce and goat’s milk yoghurt; the final plate was sea-fresh Fowey mussels with crispy hispi, toasted sunflower seeds and an unidentified pale ale. Moving on to the mains, we found the cod disappointingly sous-vide-like and it didn’t really work with the hen of the woods mushrooms, crispy-skinned Jerusalem artichoke and roasted artichoke sauce. The Cornish lamb was properly tender and reasonably well supported by roast chicory, turnip disks and a purée probably of turnip tops but tasting like kale. The two desserts varied in their appeal: the buckwheat cream and stout ice cream? with verjus was unconvincing, whereas there was a perfect balance between all the elements in the sheep’s milk yoghurt mousse, rapeseed cake, honey, juniper, and tarragon sorbet. On our previous visits we had been quite convinced that this L’Enclume offshoot was at least as good as its Cumbrian cousin. This time the wow factor was not so evident.
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