SquareMeal Review of
This buzzy South-East Asian canteen has been serving hungry City workers for over a decade now, and it has the business down to a fine art. You can be seated and served in minutes, and there’s no
shortage of smiles either. The interior is brightly lit, with swathes of bamboo, recycled metal and huge chunky wood tables suggesting a ‘street market indoors’ – though not all dishes match up to
the authentic vibe. Malaysian chicken kapitan (literally the ‘captain of curries’) packs a powerful punch, but our pad thai was disappointingly heavy on the noodles and light on spice. Also look
for assorted ‘little plates’ including ayam goreng (Indonesian spiced chicken) or prawn and crab sui mai (steamed dumplings). Aside from wines and beers, the drinks list features Thai teas and
‘detoxing’ fresh juices – the latter providing a surprisingly sprightly pairing for the often bold flavours.