SquareMeal Review of
Dishoom King's Cross
Deliberately evoking a railway café in old Bombay during the 1920s, this branch of Dishoom attracts young hipsters and die-hard Indian food fans in equal measure. The multi-tiered restaurant gets packed as efficient staff dart between close-set tables – although you may need to wait in the cocktail bar with a Bombay Martini until there’s a space available. Like its siblings in Shoreditch and Covent Garden, the signature black dhal is legendary, along with fiery-crusted lamb chops served with refreshing, yoghurt raita for dipping. Otherwise, bowls of ‘Ruby Murray’ go well with floppy roti bread, and the menu also runs to street snacks, kebabs, biryanis and desserts such as kulfi on a stick. Drink fruity lassi, exotic ‘coolers’, a bottle of London Fields IPA or something from the modest wine list while you bob to the Indian music and revel in the fun of the place.