SquareMeal Review of
The guys behind London Fields pop up the Dandy Café have settled in at this permanent site on Newington Green. Co-owners Dan Wilson and Andy Leitch (see why it’s called Dandy?) oversee a daily-changing sharing menu, which takes inspiration from the international travels of Dan (chef) and Andy (general manager). The health-conscious menu is split between protein and veg-based small plates. On the green side of things, we loved the crunchy spears of asparagus topped with smoky ricotta cheese and a sprinkling of nuts, but our promising-sounding barbecued turnip was lacking in flavour. Stand-out dishes included a hay-smoked twist on Turkish lahmacun, loaded with minced lamb and greens, and a generous helping of moreish, boneless fried chicken that we could easily have had a second helping of. Desserts were unremarkable in comparison, although the supremely rich Neal’s Yard double cream in our blood orange panna cotta deserves a special mention. A strong selection of natural wines is on hand, while daytime visitors can tuck into breakfast pastries and speciality coffee. Once it’s ironed out some initial kinks, this place has the potential to be fine and dandy.