SquareMeal Review of
Named after an antiquated method of making port, the Crusting Pipe is part of the Davy’s portfolio, a group noted for its quality & value – especially where wines are concerned. In
quasi-Dickensian surroundings, there’s plenty of oenophile interest around the £20 mark (Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, Alsace Pinot & Castilian rosé) or you can trade up to vieilles vignes such as
Châteauneuf du Pâpe. As ever, the by-the-glass selection is notable, & the boozy inventory extends to fortified wines, Meantime ales, & malts such as Glenkinchie 12 Year Old. Food is a
familiar mix of brasserie, trattoria & country pub (think superfood salad with grilled halloumi or bangers & mash). A lighter menu is served in the courtyard where
musicians & magicians complete ‘ye olde Nell Gwynne experience’ over afternoon tea.