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A worthy reimagining of a classic Chelsea pub, The Cross Keys’ latest guise sees it kitted out like the illegitimate offspring of a country boozer and an artfully distressed Manhattan steakhouse. For our money, it kind of works – bar stools, real ales and excellent Scotch eggs keep the local drinkers happy, while low-hanging industrial lights, rustic panelling and brown booths provide a cosy restaurant setting for some polished British grub at the back of the pub. Depending on the season, you could kick off with a bowl of green pea soup with pig’s head croquette, before tackling a meaty slab of cod with brown shrimps, broccoli, toasted almonds and a rich chicken jus. After that, the beautiful peach and mascarpone cheesecake with charred peach and pistachio makes a wonderful finale. Sunday roasts are well worth the trip, with whole roast chickens served ready for carving at the table.
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