SquareMeal Review of
Housed in what was once Peckham Rye station’s ticket office, The Coal Rooms mixes pale-wood Scandi and sea-green upholstery with a proper dining space and stools around a sunken open kitchen, while the menu at this cool eatery reads like a hipster ingredients test – all burnt hispi, furikake and crispy gutweed. Still, after a little decoding from our clued-up waitress, we decided to kick off with a plate of oatmeal, Peckham saké, crispy chicken skin and summer truffle – no prizes for looks, but a joyful savoury wallop of flavours. Elsewhere the Bermondsey Frier (halloumi-like cheese) with aubergine and smoked marinara sauce is like a squeakier, smokier version of parmigiana, while mains of Gloucester Old Spot pork chop and smoked goat are what meat is all about: thoughtfully cooked, packed with flavour and well-seasoned – and you get to choose your own ‘house sauce’. For pud, our apple and Cheddar pie with cinnamon-toast ice cream was awesome, the cheese adding a savoury note to perfect short pastry. To drink, there’s a fine selection of craft ales, some intriguing seasonal cocktails and a pleasing number of wines by the glass. Overall, a welcome addition to the Peckham scene.
Coal Rooms is recommended for