Peckham Cellars

The wine bar revolution is here. The dregs of exclusivity are being poured away, small producers are coming to the forefront, and carbon footprints are no longer an afterthought. At the crest of this new wave is Peckham Cellars, which burst onto the scene in 2019. Since then it has garnered nothing but praise, footfall and a loyal online customer base. But now, given the arrival of chef Pablo Urain Alfonso, we returned to sample the goods.

Greeted by the chic, laid-back space and staff to match, we hopped onto the counter stools to get close to the action. Since the previous menu won a Bib Gourmand, Alfonso has kept the core of British-ness running through the menu, while adding flecks of his Spanish flair. Pillowy wildfarmed sourdough, piled with generous daubs of whipped confit garlic butter settled us in for the night. What would follow is best described as wine with food pairings.

A pleasingly delicate Alsace Sylvaner came first, accompanied by crisp, nutty Jerusalem artichoke on a bed of fresh tzatziki. A thought-out combination, which would set the standard. It’s a sin not to go skin contact somewhere like this, so a tangy, peach-coloured Pinot Gris followed. Paired with juicy prawns doused in chilli and garlic, this was a match made in heaven.

Switching gears, a punchy Merlot somewhat outpaced the pork cheeks, until the sweet pop of mustard seeds came to the rescue. A perfectly not-too-sweet Montepulciano Vin Santo and coffee panna cotta kept up the consistency of the rest of the meal, although the dessert's own consistency was perhaps a little stiff.

Peckham Cellars bucks trends left, right and centre. It’s friendly, it’s relaxed and it’s affordable. While the food didn’t falter, the wine is definitely the star of the show. And what a show it is.

Peckham’s reputation as a foodie destination has been bolstered in recent years thanks in large part to Peckham Cellars - an intimate neighbourhood wine bar and kitchen a couple of minutes from Queens Road station. Founded by friends Helen Hall, Luke West-Whylie and Ben McVeigh, Peckham Cellars is part wine shop, part trendy hangout featuring a regularly changing, seasonal menu and wine list come weekday evenings and weekends.

The wine list has been curated by sommelier and co-founder Ben McVeigh (former head sommelier at 28-50 Fetter Lane), who has assembled an eclectic yet accessible line-up with a focus on variety and affordability, as well as championing sustainable, organic producers.

Aficionados will be pleased to find labels from small and innovative producers from emerging wine regions such as Greece, Slovenia and Tenerife as well as plenty of classics from France and Spain. There's a wine list that features a curated selection of wines available by the glass or carafe, or you can scan the well-stocked shelves for a bottle that takes your fancy. The possibility of sampling from top-end bottles is another plus, as is the opportunity to purchase anything you like the taste of.

The kitchen, headed up by Pablo Alfonso Urain, is guided by provenance and flavour, so whether you drop by for a glass of wine and a couple of small plates or a full-on, three-course Sunday lunch, you can expect bold flavours. Snacks and small plates blend Spanish and British sensibilities, in combinations such as pear and gorgonzola salad with walnuts, and mussels with lemon, thyme and pecorino butter. Large plates might take the form of pork belly with apple, jalapeno and coriander, or confit duck leg with cep purée and roasted plums.

The space, which is completely visible behind the crittall steel windows, is modern but welcoming and soundtracked by a playlist carefully curated to suit the mood on any given night.