SquareMeal Review of
A grown-up restaurant in every sense of the word, Sally Clarke’s eponymous eatery has been a fixture hereabouts for almost 35 years, yet there’s no chance of it showing its age. The menu has an enduring simplicity, with seasonal dishes showcasing first-class ingredients – as in a starter of Dorset crab with peppery watercress and new season’s peas and broad beans. Clarke’s early penchant for Californian chargrilling has given way to a fondness for sprightly Mediterranean flavours: leg and saddle of lamb come with raisins and pine nuts, while Cornish turbot is roasted on the bone with a sauce of Prosecco, chives and dill. To finish, there are gloriously unassuming desserts such as soft vanilla meringue with peaches and elderflower cream. Eating from the carte isn’t cheap, but Sally’s legendary set menu is still a bargain and the well-rounded wine list offers rich pickings by the glass.