SquareMeal Review of
Upmarket wine bar Clarette occupies a landmark mock-Tudor pile that was once The William Wallace pub – hence the beautiful stained-glass depictions of Scottish-town coats of arms in both the art-deco salon and first-floor bar. The place is co-owned by one of Bordeaux’s Château Margaux dynasty, who has helped stuff the extensive wine list with stellar (and costly) French vintages. Grand vins from Margaux fetch four-figure sums, and vie for attention with brilliant big-ticket Burgundies. Fortunately, you can also find perky Pays d’Oc Viognier sold at pub prices, and the house Champagne, Pierre Péters, isn’t destructively expensive. Coravin-kept quality appellations available by the glass (classy 2013 Condrieu or ballsy Barolo Villero, for instance) also keep the bill down. In the ground-floor slightly ‘pubbier’ room, or at tables on a heated terrace, order classic cocktails, cheeses and charcuterie plates. More substantial dishes might include braised octopus with capers, olives and tomatoes.