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This third American-style charcoal grill restaurant follows Brixton and Shoreditch, offering unchallenging comfort food at reasonable prices. Sparsely decorated, bare wooden tables and chairs sit atop an unembellished concrete floor, a pink neon sign adding a dash of vibrancy to the low-lit, moody atmosphere. Sky-high burgers get top billing, our ‘smoky beast’ landing like a small space craft, two soft and sweet brioche buns framing a tower of beef patty, pulled pork and cascading ‘tobacco’ onions – which are far more appetising than they sound. UK-sourced , plump lamb cutlets came simply adorned with rocket and a winning smoky chilli jam, an addition that memorably lifted the flavours. A pickled watermelon, feta, jalapeño, peanut and coriander salad sounded more interesting than it tasted, the too-large chunks of fruit and cheese suggesting it’s best to stick to burgers. Elsewhere, there’s fried chicken on waffles, ultra-hot wings (if you finish them they’re free) and fried crab sandwiches. Throw in well-priced cocktails, shots, beers and a small selection of organic wines and you’re in for a boozy, filling and casual meal.
Already well-established in Brixton and Shoreditch, chef-owner Robin Freeman’s Bukowski Grill has just opened its third branch in the heart of Soho. The latest location sits amid the trendy coffee shops, juice bars and restaurants along d’Arblay Street.The menu is inpired by an American diner, with classic dishes such as burgers, ribs, chicken wings and sandwiches, all showcasing good quality British produce. During the week, a breakfast menu is also available, on the weekend that expands to a brunch offering.Decor is modern industrial (unfinished ceilings and floors, painted walls), and spacious – the chairs...
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