SquareMeal Review of
Brasserie Max at the Covent Garden Hotel
A lesson in boutique charm, Brasserie Max combines homeliness with a sense of style – no wonder it’s popular with visiting celebs staying at the Covent Garden Hotel. Equally pleasant for breezy
business lunches, chic afternoon tea or dinner à deux, the menu is a mix of classics and on-trend favourites ranging from Dorest crab with avocado and paprika mayo, veal chops and Dover sole
to Thai beef salad, pepper-crusted yellowfin tuna, and roast cod with chorizo and saffron potatoes. Apart from the occasional misfire, the cooking is mostly on target (witness well-balanced
crispy sea bass with ginger-steamed Asian greens and sesame), and desserts such as plum tarte tatin or dark chocolate brownie rarely disappoint. The wine list features plenty of decent choices,
and super-smooth service is a bonus.