SquareMeal Review of
Following rave reviews of its autumn 2016 opening Jamavar, Leela Palaces Group has opened a second Mayfair Indian, on the former site of Claude Bosi’s Hibiscus. Street food and chaat is the big idea here, inspired by India’s dabbawala lunchbox deliveries, with a pastel-coloured interior designed to reflect the railway network that supports the service – look out for a nifty hat rack-cum-mirror, overhead luggage racks and cut-glass screens. Small plates include doughy naan topped with lightly-spiced scrambled egg and earthy truffle shavings, vegetable samosas wrapped in never-bettered pastry and lashed with refreshing mint chutney, and warm chunks of meltingly tender goat meat served with bread rolls for dipping. The menu is bulked up by more substantial items such as biryanis and tandoor chops, but we’d recommend the mild Madras chicken curry, accompanied by a side of rice and a moreish wafer-thin podi dosa, ideal for scooping up leftovers. We enjoyed what we ate, although heat and spice have been toned down for risk-averse Mayfair palates. Fun cocktails and knowledgeable staff are further pluses at a diverting newcomer that, while hardly a cheap eat, is more kindly priced than other Indians this side of Regent Street.
FT Weekend & Laurent-Perrier Summer menu: 5 courses £60
From a set menu. Includes a glass of Laurent-Perrier La Cuvèe per person.
Maximum of 20 diners. Includes Tax, excludes service.