Squaremeal Review of Benihana ?

Loud, frenetic and packed with enough theatre to keep kids and grown-ups entertained, the Benihana chain has been an international success story since launching in New York in 1950. The group has never quite lifted off on these shores, but its subterranean King’s Road site remains a clear hit for children’s birthday parties and suchlike – thanks largely to Bennie’s flamboyant at-table chefs, who regularly steal the show with their joking, juggling and lighting of trademark onion ‘volcanoes’. Dinners come as set packages, built around steaks, tuna, black cod and other luxury ingredients, cooked over the hibachi grill in front of your eyes. While the formula is tried and trusted, the site is starting to look a little tired and costs can quickly add up: “the food needs to be a lot better and more plentiful at these prices”, noted one reader.
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