SquareMeal Review of
Ben's Cornish Kitchen
There’s something classy but rather lovable about Ben’s Cornish Kitchen – an affable bistro-style eatery on Marazion’s main street. Inside, thick stone walls add a rustic edge to proceedings, although all eyes are on Ben Prior’s “unbelievably priced” menus – a compendium of great-value dishes displaying a “fabulously inventive use of local and seasonal ingredients”. We’re in accord with readers who say that Ben is a chef with “elevated levels of skill and invention” – just witness cleverly contrived, neatly balanced creations such as ravioli-style pansotti of crab and lobster with tomato salsa, broad beans capers and shallots (“an intelligent mix of flavours”). His talents also show through when it comes to meat and game, notably a “truly brilliant” dish of roast squab cut through with the sweetness of roasted fig, couscous and harissa hummus. To conclude, there are well-ripened cheeses, plus flavoursome desserts such as a cleverly deconstructed vanilla cheesecake accompanied by plump poached peaches and blueberries. The comprehensive wine list is as affordable as the food – “we could hardly believe the bill”, exclaimed one couple.