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18-18a Bruton Place
Regarded by some regulars as a club without a sub, Gavin Rankin’s hospitable restaurant and bar comes at the brasserie tradition by way of Bruton Place. An instinctive understanding of the pleasures of the table marks it out, even among showier offerings; an oyster bar, operational during the day, dispenses rarebits and toasted sandwiches alongside the rocks and natives, while the bar makes cocktail-drinking easy at a flat £10 a pop. Alongside the daily table d’hôte, Bellamy’s carte is the essence of elegant comfort: try iced lobster soufflé, goose rillettes or risotto milanese to start, followed by quenelles of pike with sauce Nantua or roast grouse with figs. To finish, it’s got to be îles flottantes. Such dishes are not light on labour, but there’s a sense that the kitchen abhors shortcuts. The wine list is French, but not eye-wateringly priced.
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18-18a Bruton Place
020 7491 2727
Bond Street Tube Station 475m
Oxford Circus Tube Station 508m
Medici Gallery 150m
Mon-Fri 12N-2.30pm Mon-Sat 7-10.30pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
The menu is good and more varied than some i.e. smoked eel mousse, jugged hare, rabbit, grouse, pike soufflé as well as more common dishes. The service was courteous and efficient, the cooking good and the room has a nice warm feeling to it although it can be a bit noisy. It is just off Berkeley Square in Bruton Place behind Bruton Street so well place for Mayfair and Bond Street visits.
Food + drink: 3
It's like the recession never happened here. But it's also like the boom never happened either because Bellamy's is still sitting snugly in the early 80s and yet to suffer the highs and lows of the Nineties and Naughties. If you are a hedgie of a certain age who hasn't lost it all yet in European bonds (or perhaps are just about to and fancy one last taste of the old life) then this is the place for you. The welcome here is warm and genteel, “Ah, Mr X, lovely to see you again. Your usual table? Your usual wine?”. The latter will be something French, as that's all that's on offer, but fortunately the wine list is long enough to keep most people happy. Everything is smothered in a comforting layer of butter like a gastro security blanket. A simple asparagus dish hits the spot. The recommended Dover Sole sits, gently fried, atop some unintimidating, slightly anaemic looking, skinless boiled potatoes, with great dollops of spinach and beans as sides. The rhubarb crumble is just that: deliciously sharp bits of rhubarb under a thin crumb. Portions, seen through our American super-size-me glasses, look as if they have been subjected to austerity measures but they are just in keeping with the cuisine's 70s heritage. The meal is a study in straightforward, old style cooking. Service is friendly, but discreet. The clientele consists primarily of classic lunchtime suits. In proper 80s style, I don't get to see the bill as I'm a lady, but I'm guessing the pricing is somewhat more modern, given that my starter was £11.50 and the fish £26. I am astonished that Bellamy's was in fact only established in 2004. My astonishment fades when I am told its founders are all ex-Annabels. Ah, that explains that then.
Food + drink: 5
I work nearby so visit Bellamys fairly regularly. The maitre d and all the staff are so professional and welcoming that my spirits are raised before I even sit down. The smallish menu of French staples is of the very highest order, superb cooking of grown up comfort food served in a lovely room, with a bustly yet not too crowded atmosphere.
I have rather particular dietary requirements and they are happy to accommodate my annoying changes without any fuss. It is not cheap but very good value and a far better bet than twice the price trendier establishments nearby.
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