SquareMeal Review of
Lucky, lucky Nunhead. This unassuming new Parisian bar-restaurant serves some of south London’s best nosh – at very reasonable prices. The menu changes daily, but invariably includes meat and vegetarian sharing boards. Ours contained charcuterie from Moons Green in Kent, crisp morsels of freshly fried arancini, rich duck liver pâté, wonderfully subtle fennel purée, hot pork crackling and properly dressed bitter salad leaves. A plate of perfectly cooked pork loin, kale and crisp bacon, on a mound of silky celeriac purée, had us fighting over the last scraps, while an indulgent chocolate mousse with candied pear was dessert perfection. Liquid accompaniment is provided by a short, well-rounded wine list, beers and a handful of cocktails. Owner Babette runs the place as if it were her own bare-brick, gilt-corniced, chandeliered front room, welcoming regulars warmly and pulling up a chair by the wood burner for a chat. A local worth travelling to.