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15-17 Marylebone Lane
020 7486 7922
Like its sibling on Fetter Lane, 28°-50° is a haven for oenophiles who can sample over 30 wines by the glass or carafe as well as choosing from a bespoke ‘collector’s list’ gleaned from private cellars at greatly reduced mark-ups. As you’d expect Agnar Sverrisson (the chef who founded Michelin-starred Texture), attention has been paid to details and service is excellent. To eat, try exemplary foie gras terrine or a punchy gazpacho served over an olive and cucumber salad, before tackling a meltingly tender onglet or a rich Icelandic fish stew with chunks of cod and potato in a velvety béarnaise sauce. Otherwise, sharing plates, rock oysters and La Fromagerie cheeses encourage more casual grazing. A striking central bar provides focus in the airy dining space, while the more intimate basement boasts an open kitchen.
Agnar Sverrisson's wine bar/bistro in Marylebone is small, simple and interesting. Key to its success is the wide choice of 50 wines available in two serves of by-the-glass and carafe, as well as bottle. Five Madeiras add a quirky and interesting touch, too. And the whole thing is backed up by a one-page Collector’s List with good, interesting and old fine wines.
Best wine bars in London
Best Marylebone Bars
15-17 Marylebone Lane
020 7486 7922
Bond Street Tube Station 259m
Oxford Circus Tube Station 665m
Wigmore Street 48m
The Wigmore Hall 151m
Mon-Sat 11am-11pm (Thurs-Sat -12M) Sun 12N-10.30pm
Food & Drink:
Rate & Review
Food + drink: 4
Every time I visit 28º-50º I enjoy myself. Apart from their excellent selection of both traditional and unusual wines by glass, carafe and bottle, their exceptional food, never fails to deliver. My guest ordered the the scallops and the hake - both were cooked to perfection. I ordered the chicken liver parfait which was perfectly paired with an apricot and ginger chutney and the suckling pork belly which included salsify (a favourite of mine, commonly used in France though rarely seen on English menus.) Whether you after a quick drink of exceptional wine, or dinner 28º-50º is definitely worth a visit.
28-50 is as much as sister to Texture as Kate and Wills' firstborn is cousin to Blue Ivy (23rd cousin twice removed according to the Daily Mail, bastion of all things royal). OK they are aiming at totally different markets but to get the elephant in the room out of the way upfront: the evening here cost a third of our meal at Texture and was 3x better value. I'd recently found Texture a bit forgettable and hadn't been blown away by the 28-50 at Fetter Lane last year but whilst the two 28-50s are twins, with a shared fondness for wooden wine boxes stacked sky high, they are definitely non-identical ones. For a start, the 2 floor-to-ceiling windowed walls of the triangular bar at Marylebone Lane make it light and bright, waving goodbye to sinful-drinking-should-be-done-in-the-dark dim basements. For seconds, the service is charming: the maitre d' helps me up on to the bar stool and tucks me in like a solicitous, but ludicrously good-looking, uncle. Food is straight-forward but delicious (and unlike Texture, fat is allowed). We shared a few small plate starters including the most amazing cubes of intensely piggyish pork belly with really crispy skin and a sticky honey/soy sauce. My spatchcock chicken wasn't the most exciting but was perfectly, simply cooked, with lovely fresh greens and, aaah, triple-cooked chips which may well have seen 3 cooking stages. I finished off with a crispy topped creme brulee, yum. Then there's the wine, which was an education. We ordered a carafe which seemed tiny on arrival (and is actually 250ml which passes now as a “normal” size glass in many places) but, like Mary Poppins's carpet bag, dished out an astonishing 3 glasses of wine. We started with a Portuguese one and then without guilt tried the Rose and then a recommended Viognier. Overall, £50 of money well spent. Of all the family, this is definitely the fair-haired boy for me.
This is my second time here and, likely, not the last.
The restaurant is uniformly pleasant, professional and well-run. Food is tasty and well-cooked (menu is brief, but not challenging), service is friendly and prompt and and prices user-friendly. It is the wine list, however, that takes it to the next level: one would not expect to find a bottle of Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici 1997 on the menu at all, let alone of around 60 pounds! Brilliant!
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