As ever, German chef Rainer Becker and Italian designer Claudio Silvestrin made Japan their muse for this fourth link in the Roka group. In its two smart spaces, texture is all important: look out for porphyry stone, tanned leathers and stained-grey timber. Set between Covent Garden and Somerset House, the restaurant makes a big play of its robata grill, which dominates the open kitchen in the middle of the main dining room. The inviting bar serves cocktails in handmade clay vessels and is a good spot for a working lunch. Its display walls showcase the group’s range of shochu tonics. Both spaces invite groups for sit-down dinners.