Wildwood is billed as a ‘small collection’ of restaurants – in other words, it’s a chain. Everything about the style, from the bottles of olive oil on each table to the expanses of bare wood, wine racks and displays of provisions suggest a thought-through MOR Italian concept – so it’s a jolly nice surprise to be served some rather good stone-baked pizzas, attractively presented pasta and grills. A tenner goes a long way here: try a ‘superfood’ salad with smoked mackerel or piri-piri chicken, spaghetti carbonara or spring vegetable risotto; alternatively, push the boat out for rump steak with Gorgonzola sauce or roasted sea bass fillets with tomatoes, courgettes and fried potatoes. Affordable cocktails and Italian wines at friendly prices are further reasons to like Wildwood’s easy style.