Walter's

The leafy suburb of Dulwich has been begging for a neighbourhood restaurant. It has plenty of cafes, but when it comes to dinner there is a sudden lack of choice. Finally, however, someone has answered the call. Leveraging the rampant success of their oyster bar in Covent Garden, Matt Lovell and Rob Hampton have brought us Walter’s.

Approaching the ex-Café Rouge shopfront, we could sense the buzz instantly. Walter’s, having only been open a month, was full. Our table was the only one left, which we were guided to by staff who seemed genuinely happy to work there. They also knew the recently-conceived menu inside out. Green flags all round.

The British-inspired menu certainly isn’t limited to the UK, and as such, we started with arancini. Often dense and oily, these orbs were instead crispy-on-the-outside, creamy-on-the-inside, laced with a touch of truffle. The next snack, an even lighter cod’s roe mousse, came with brittle shards of charcoal tortilla and a kick of espelette chilli. A confident start. Clearly, Walter’s ex-Ramsay, ex-Robuchon, ex-Hartnett chef knows his stuff. A staff-selected crisp Greek white was the perfect accomplice, flaunting Walter’s synergy between bar and kitchen.

Unable to resist anything that’s been cooking for a full nine to five, the braised ox cheek was a must. Served with a velvety blob of hickory-smoked mash, giant balsamic-roasted shallot and smattering of watercress, it was unforgettable. Unfortunately, the sea bass with garam masala and sea herbs will be remembered for its £32 price tag and little else.

Grapefruit sorbet that followed refreshed our palates, its bittersweet balance reminiscent of a negroni. A comically large old fashioned, sweetened with a hint of maple syrup, ended the evening on a deliciously boozy note. With some minor tweaks to the menu, Walter’s will no doubt become the neighbourhood restaurant Dulwich deserves.

Rob Hampton and Matt Lovell, the pair behind Covent Garden’s much-loved seafood bar and kitchen The Oystermen, are also the duo behind Walter’s, a neighbourhood restaurant and bar in the heart of West Dulwich. The focus here, though, isn’t on seafood but on familiar British favourites packed full of gutsy flavours. The person to manage said dishes, is Khalid Hassan, who has previously worked under Gordan Ramsay, Angela Hartnett, Jason Atherton and Joel Robuchon. What a line-up of ex-bosses.  

With British ingredients placed at the heart of every plate, the menu includes things like apricot and harissa glazed lamb belly, Jerusalem artichoke orzo risotto, roasted venison loin with parsnip and trout skin with a cod roe dip and truffle arancini. The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner throughout the week and on Sundays it will offer monthly-changing dishes designed to be shared by the table. 

From its drink offering, there is a generous selection of English wines and sparkling as well as grower Champagnes, a large by-the-glass wine selection,  classic cocktails and a broad choice of whiskies. Indeed, its drinks program is rather important at Walter’s, with the restaurant featuring an antique bar and a wine cellar downstairs, which actually doubles as a private dining room and a space to host wine tastings.  

The restaurant only holds 50 guests, so is fairly intimate, and is split into two sections. The main dining room is at the front, donning bare wooden floorboards and brick walls, while a cosier, more moody space sits at the rear of the building which functions as a lounge to relax in with a cocktail.  

The name Walter’s is after Walter Hathaway, a master milliner who once owned the building. Hampton and Lovell commented: “We have had such a journey since opening The Oystermen, our first bricks and mortar site just over four years ago. Walter’s feels like a very natural next step for us, we are moving down south, to a  neighborhood we know and love. We can’t wait to create a spot for people to relax and enjoy great food at any time of day.”