La Nonna - Pasta Fresca

Italian·
££££
·
Silver Award
·
London, SW9 8LB ·Website·Call020 3589 6645

SquareMeal Review of La Nonna - Pasta Fresca

Silver Award

You have to have something about you to be really successful in Brixton Village these days, such is the level of competition. From our spot out front at La Nonna, we can practically see Sarap Baon. Salon is just around the corner. Temaki is a few doors down. And that’s before you get to all the sights and sounds of Brixton Village Market and Pop Brixton. This is the lion’s den, but the packed tables at La Nonna suggest this neighbourhood trattoria has some staying power.

The interior is clean, minimal and easy on the eye. Wooden tables, some greenery dotted around the room, a smattering of rattan bar stools for those who like getting up close and personal with the kitchen. It’s restaurant design 101 but it’s cosy and charming. And frankly, it doesn’t matter much when the food starts coming out.

Head chef Daniele hails from Rome, so the menu takes a distinct Roman tack. We dove straight into a bowl of smoked stracciatella (the cheese curds from inside a burrata), scooping it liberally onto crisp shards of Sardinian music paper bread. It’s the essence of Italian cuisine - just two ingredients, but completely entrancing. 

Everything that follows is equally fantastic. Meatballs in tomato sauce are bold and robust, but the tomato still has that edge of acidity and bitterness that gives it real depth. Aubergine parmigiana and Roman-style arancini are well executed and delicious, not a mess of melted cheese and oil as they sometimes can be. 

Starters are all fine and dandy, but when your restaurant is called La Nonna Pasta Fresca, the pasta fresca had better be good. A Roman restaurant lives and dies on its carbonara, and this one is an absolute winner, with smooth, luscious sauce coating every strand of delicate pasta. The wild mushroom and truffle tagliatelle will likely be overlooked in favour of fan favourites, but take it from us, it’s magical. 

Also, a special mention for the service which is deserving of it’s own paragraph - friendly, helpful, and always perfectly-timed. La Nonna is the sort of neighbourhood pasta restaurant that will have you considering a move to South London if you don't already call it home.

Good to know

Average Price
££££ - £30 - £49
Cuisines
Italian
Ambience
Cool, Fun, Lively
Food Occasions
Dinner
Special Features
Counter dining, Vegan options, Vegetarian options
People
Child friendly, Dates

About

La Nonna - Pasta Fresca started life as a small pasta truck selling street food-style plates to frequenters of London's Flat Iron square. Its Brixton holding is the first established site from the independent restaurant and brings some of the best Italian dishes and ingredients to Market Row. The 38-cover space offers a relaxed environment with an open kitchen and counter dining bar stools so you can watch its quintessential pasta dishes being made in front of you. The décor is by no means traditional, though, with a contemporary style that sees tiled pink interiors and bright green industrial fittings provide a bright and fun backdrop to customers’ dining experience. While warm lighting and foliage feel fresh and on trend.  

La Nonna focusses on doing the simple things well. There won't be anything you don't recognise on the menu but its commitment to high-quality ingredients and making its pasta from scratch is what makes its crowd-pleasing plates so popular. Expect the likes of La Nonna’s trusty carbonara, cacio e pepe, creamy mushroom and truffle mafalde, a 12-hour slow-cooked ragu and pumpkin ravioli. From the antipasti section discover burrata with olive oil, a trio of salami, aubergine balls and mozzarella and chicken liver arancini. Look out for daily-changing specials in line with what’s in season, too. 

Desserts include tiramisu (of course), pistachio cake with lemon cream and an assortment of sorbets. Plus, there’s a child-friendly menu that offers half-portions of a couple of La Nonna’s signature dishes if you have little ones in tow.  

The drinks menu celebrates a small number of organic and natural wines hailing from Italy alongside a popular selection of Italian cocktails and digestifs – think Aperol Spritz’s, Negronis and Limoncello.  

La Nonna will also be bringing a deli to its new Brixton destination where customers will be able to purchase Italian delicacies, such as cured meats and artisan cheeses.


FAQs

Are there vegan options at La Nonna?

Yes there are vegan options on the menu

Helpful? 0

Location

7 Market Row, Coldharbour Lane, London, SW9 8LB

020 3589 6645 020 3589 6645

Website

Opening Times

Dinner
Mon Closed
Tue 17:30-22:00
Wed 17:30-22:00
Thu 17:30-22:00
Fri 17:30-22:00
Sat 12:00-22:00
Sun Closed

Reviews

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1 Review 
Food/Drink
Service
Atmosphere
Value

Anon

08 March 2022  
Food & Drink 5
Service 5
Atmosphere 5
Value 5
5 stars across the board, and you'll want seconds

Normally it's nearly impossible to find a passably good vegan pasta option... but La Nonna's arrabiatta is one of the best pastas I've ever had (even the meat-lovers at the table were jealous). Ended up ordering a second portion to share with my date. The service was so pleasant and friendly, and I could come back here every day. Worth booking in advance even for an early dinner and SO worth the hype! 

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