A sequel to the Hart Brothers’ El Pastór, this tortilla-factory-cum-taco-bar offers a near-identical Mexican menu with the added novelty of own-made tortillas. It’s not easy to find, mind, tucked under a railway arch and backing on to a housing estate, and the lack of passing trade probably explains why the place wasn’t very busy on our visit.
Industrial-chic fixtures, arty posters and room for only a handful of covers help make this a cool space, and the menu is great too, majoring in flavourful, moreish tacos. We’d recommend trying three to four of these each, with solid options including the classic Al Pastór (blackened, intensely meaty pork shoulder given an explosion of freshness from caramelised pineapple and guacamole) and a fiery vegetarian version where spice-laden mushrooms are mixed with caramelised onion, stringy Oaxaca cheese and coriander.
Drinks of frozen Margaritas and Mexican beers add to the fun, while of the two desserts (one being El Pastór’s cakey take on a Bounty chocolate bar), the rich chocolate mousse was our favourite, its sour-cream topping creating a winning flavour balance. If you’re looking to enjoy all that El Pastór has to offer in a more intimate setting, Tortilleria is worth the search.