Tom Brown at The Capital

There are restaurant openings, and then there are homecomings - moments when a chef returns to the scene of their earliest triumphs, sleeves rolled, knives honed, with a retinue of Michelin-starred talent in tow. Tom Brown at The Capital is precisely that: a full-circle event, staged in the same dining room where Brown once soared under Nathan Outlaw, now reimagined as the flagship for his singular, seafood-led vision.

First, we’re ushered to the adjoining bar, which is all rippled holochrome with a ceiling spangled with faux stars, for a cup of sweet plum sake. In a move borrowed from the Michelin playbook, we’re then whisked into the kitchen to dispatch a single mussel. Cloaked in a tart beetroot and port glaze, and filled with a silky mussel parfait, the stunt pays off.

The dining room, meanwhile, is bright and almost cheerful. The walls have the cool translucence of sea glass, and there are rattan-backed chairs, and chandeliers that bristle with golden spikes. It seats only 28, but Brown’s cooking here is as bold and restless as ever.

A ‘prawn toast-ish’ number is a clever opener - oyster poached for an hour, layered triple decker style, and pepped up with a seaweed hot sauce that checks all the sweet, spicy, saline boxes. Bread arrives with a parade of cured fish charcuterie, some hailing from Brown’s now-closed Michelin-starred Cornerstone restaurant. Think cod mortadella, salmon bresaola, and trout ham, accompanied by an addictive crab oil with a sly lick of balsamic.

Not everything is pitch-perfect. Tuna tartare, though visually arresting, leans too hard on soy and miso, and cries out for acid to cut the fattiness of a quail’s egg yolk. Scallop with hazelnut caramel feels an objectively odd pairing, while a crab custard is thick and cloying despite a few flecks of grapefruit flesh dispensed tableside.

Elsewhere, that risk-taking bears fruit. Cuttlefish ravioli is ingenious at every level: the heads are blitzed to form ‘pasta’ sheets, and filled with ricotta and braised tentacles. That same braising liquor is then transformed into a rich sauce with handfuls of robust pecorino..

It’s ten courses bookended by some quite remarkable things, all delivered with friendly, confident service that’s well-suited to a Knightsbridge crowd. With a few tweaks to temper some of the kitchen’s wilder impulses, The Capital’s flagship restaurant could become the defining act of Brown’s career - a restaurant as thrilling as it is thoughtful, and one that London’s seafood lovers should watch closely.

Chef Tom Brown has returned to The Capital Hotel in Knightsbridge with an exciting new restaurant, bringing his distinctive culinary vision back to the venue where he previously worked as head chef under Nathan Outlaw. This intimate 28-cover restaurant offers a highly refined dining experience, where Brown’s signature approach—clean, creative, and produce-driven—is at the forefront.

Known for his bold, flavourful dishes that champion the finest seasonal ingredients, Brown curates a menu that celebrates the best of British produce. His modern, thoughtful cooking style combines innovative techniques with a deep respect for simplicity, allowing the natural flavours of his ingredients to shine. The menu evolves with the seasons, ensuring that every visit offers something fresh and exciting.

The Capital Hotel has long been associated with some of the UK’s most celebrated chefs, including Gary Rhodes and Eric Chavot, making it a fitting home for Brown’s latest venture. His return to this historic setting blends tradition with innovation, elevating the hotel’s gastronomic reputation with a contemporary and dynamic approach.

Brown first made his mark at Outlaw’s at The Capital before gaining widespread acclaim with his Hackney Wick restaurant, Cornerstone. His ability to balance technical precision with a relaxed yet refined dining experience has set him apart in London’s competitive restaurant scene. At The Capital Belgravia, he continues this philosophy, creating an atmosphere that is both welcoming and elegant, with an emphasis on exceptional hospitality and attention to detail.

The intimate setting allows for a personalised and immersive dining experience, where guests can enjoy carefully crafted dishes that highlight the purity of ingredients and the depth of flavour. The menu is rooted in Brown’s signature style, focusing on freshness, simplicity, and unexpected pairings that elevate each dish to something truly special.

This restaurant is more than just a return to familiar ground for Brown; it is an evolution of his culinary journey, offering a refined yet approachable take on modern British cuisine. The Capital Belgravia has quickly established itself as one of London’s most sought-after dining destinations, adding another jewel to the city’s vibrant food scene.