The Aubrey at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park

Japanese izakaya imitations are popping up all over London at the moment, but none do it better – surely – than The Aubrey, a self-titled ‘eccentric’ adaption of the pub-style, Japanese drinking den. This is the Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s newest dining addition and you can bet it gets the same opulent treatment as the rest of the building: a dusky red glow covers almost every surface it can, from plush velvet seating to the tassle trim on each lampshade. The mood is set and it’s unquestionably lavish.  

We start with one of its seasonal cocktails - well, seasonal in Japan our waiter clarified - a strawberry-tinted twist on a margarita that was fruity and tangy in all the right places. Tread carefully though. The drinks are fantastic but you’ll pay 20-something quid for a modestly sized glass of its finely-balanced creations. 

Plates arrived in a considered order, starting with cold, picky items and working towards its signature robata grill dishes. While a pretty-looking sushi platter and oysters served over ice were perfectly fine and worthy of a picture, we’d urge you to divert your attention to anything fresh from the flames. Blackened miso cod was one of the most delicious things we tried, rich with heady umami flavour and fall-apart soft. A questionable-looking bowl of charcoal fried chicken was crisp, fatty and served with the perfect partner, yuzu mayonnaise, while slivers of marinated pork delivered flavour we never thought it capable of. A gloriously rich bowl of wagyu oxtail fried rice was self-indulgently crowned with a chunk of bone marrow which our waiter expertly scooped out and stirred through the dish.  

Dessert was billed as a white chocolate miso souffle, although we couldn’t really taste either of those distinctions. But no matter, the rest of the meal was awesome, although you’ll need to dig deep into your pockets to experience it.

The Aubrey at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park is an eccentric Japanese izakaya specialising in inventive cocktails and luxury Japanese dining. For some context, an izakaya is a type of Japanese bar or pub that literally translates to "stay-drink-place". They typically serve alcoholic drinks, alongside small dishes and snacks, and are designed to offer a more casual setting for people to meet and socialise.

While The Aubrey can’t necessarily be classed as ‘casual’, it does offer a selection of expertly made drinks alongside modern interpretations of traditional izakaya dishes. Designed to evoke the energy of a night out in Ginza, the interiors offer a distinctive blend of English glamour and Japanese art, with over 250 pieces hanging on the walls. Designed by Brady Williams Studio, the dining room evokes the feel of a Georgian mansion, with warm timber tones, a sumptuous colour palette, and intricate murals.

To drink, the focus remains heavily on cocktails, and the menu offers a thought-provoking selection inspired by mythological heroines. The ‘Medusa’ for example takes its cues from one of the three Gorgan sisters, and features a punchy mix of rice shochu, vanilla syrup, clarified yogurt, passion fruit, lime and Champagne. Elsewhere, a selection of speciality sakes, fine wines and premium spirits are available for those who fancy something little stronger.

Diners have a choice between dinner and bar snack menus, although both centre around small plates designed for sharing. Edomae sushi, robata grills and tempura dishes take centre stage, with highlights including BBQ tonkatsu beef rib, lobster caviar maki rolls, and its signature ‘new-style’ sashimi, such as A5 Wagyu striploin tataki with XO sauce, yolk emulsion and ponzu.

At weekends, The Aubrey serves a free-flowing brunch featuring a selection of brunch signatures (think matcha French toast and Okonomiyaki) with bottomless drinks options.