A Knightsbridge institution since 1974, Sale e Pepe has returned for its second act, with a new lick of paint courtesy of the Thesleff Group. Once the hangout for the likes of Rod Stewart and Diana Ross, today it attracts a new generation of star-studded clientele.
A long, marble-topped bar greets us as we step inside, decked out with neon lights - a contemporary touch that leans into the revival. The dining room, however, remains surprisingly old school, sporting white tablecloths, flickering oil candles, and mocha-toned booths, although a collection of eccentric, abstract artwork and bronzed detailing helps unite the two spaces. Smartly waistcoated staff are astute in their service, ensuring no glass is unfilled, and seamlessly reeling off recommendations.
We start with gamberi scottati. The red prawns arrive barely cooked, just a couple of seconds on each side, bathed in Amalfi lemon and lashings of olive oil. It’s as zippy as it is pungent - and not for the faint hearted. A tuna tartare is more mellow, creamy avocado topped with incredibly fresh bluefin and slivers of radish, doused in espelette pepper for a subtle kick. It’s refined but unfussy - the Sale e Pepe way.
Mains are equally comforting, with a home-cooked feel to each plate. Thick paccheri tubes of pasta lean al dente, coated in a creamy, booze-drenched tomato vodka sauce, thick with parmesan and black pepper to finish. Veal Milanese, meanwhile, is unapologetically retro. A bone-in chop is breaded and fried, and it arrives with a pleasing char, generously salted, and brightened with a touch of lemon.
The meal ends the way every Italian should: with a shot of limoncello and a generous scoop of tiramisu straight from a tray. Thick layers of mascarpone are stacked atop a rich sponge, doused in a hearty amount of chocolate, that has us scraping the plate clean.
Prices are firmly in Knightsbridge territory, but Sale e Pepe delivers on its promise. It’s polished, familiar, and gently refreshed, and it’s clear to see why it's still considered a classic.