Theo Randall has the happy knack of taking the best ingredients and turning them into relatively simple but very pleasing dishes in the best of the Italian tradition. Add to that a comfortable dining room with decent space between the tables and efficiently friendly staff, an example of their quality being the way they held our starters while we finished our pre-dinner fizz (something that would not have been the case in Greenhouse two evenings later) and you are well on the way to satisfying the desires of even the most demanding diners. The chef’s selection tasting menu was based on the day’s fresh deliveries and the wine pairing sounded good, so that was what we opted for. Authentically straightforward and typically tasty canapés, tomato and marjoram bruschetta and oil soaked foccaccia, set us up perfectly for the delicious antipasto of a pyramid of Devon crab, fennel, dandelion, radicchio, and bottarga, which was a superb match with the shellfish. The primo maintained the high standard, combining the best homemade pasta with a slow-cooked veal stuffing, pancetta and a porcini sauce - a remarkably light textural and flavour combination. The secondo continued the utilisation of the best of British ingredients with Italian counterparts, supremely tender Somerset lamb rack with globe and Jerusalem artichoke, carrot, sweet red and white beetroot, a nod to fennel, turnip and leek, and proper salsa d’erbe with some body, a really lovely dish. Cheese followed, more or less the same selection as on our last visit, Robiola, Taleggio, a goat’s cheese, and Gorgonzola, with pear mustard, but this time elevated to another level by the amazing match-up with four different versions of Vermouth. The beautiful signature Amalfi lemon tart with crème fraîche brought the meal to a satisfyingly successful conclusion. Well done to everybody involved!