Set in 50 acres of parkland close to the M25, this creakily atmospheric, Grade I-listed manor house is now a premier-league getaway with heritage trappings but a modern culinary outlook. Top honours go to the antiquated and intimate Tudor Room, where the kitchen is now delivering hot-shot Michelin-starred cooking with bags of flair, invention and common sense. A dazzling selection of cromesquis nibbles and a cheeky amuse-bouche set the tone for meals in which flavour is king: from the complex savoury notes of Anjou pigeon with walnut, pomegranate and celeriac to the melting richness of pork loin, belly and cheek with piccalilli or the luxurious delicacy of turbot with gnocchi, peas and clams, everything is handled with aplomb. Desserts also bring out the big guns, witness a combo of chocolate, passion fruit and coffee. Wine pairings are much appreciated and an expert sommelier is on hand to assist with the lengthy list.
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